In Harem #4 – part of an extensive series titled Harem – Moroccan-born artist Lalla Essaydi reimagines the Orientalist fantasies that have long shaped Western perceptions of Arab women. Drawing inspiration from nineteenth-century European paintings that depict harems as exotic, sensual spaces, Essaydi offers a nuanced portrayal that challenges these stereotypes.

Essaydi’s meticulous process involves weeks of preparation, from designing garments to staging the photograph. The use of a large-format camera and traditional film techniques captures a remarkable level of detail, allowing viewers to engage with the tactile qualities of henna and fabric. The glossy, reflective surface of the print further emphasizes the dualities present in the work: tradition versus modernity, confinement versus expression, and fantasy versus reality.

The photograph presents a woman standing in the ornate doorway of Dar el Basha, a historic palace in Marrakesh. Dressed in a custom-made kaftan that mirrors the intricate zellij tilework and carved wood panels surrounding her, the subject becomes both a part of and distinct from the architectural setting. This visual blending underscores themes of confinement and identity central to Essaydi’s work.

Another distinctive feature in Harem #4 is the use of henna applied to the subject’s exposed skin including her face, hands, palms, and feet. Derived from the leaves of the henna plant Lawsonia inermis, henna is a natural dye that has been used for centuries across North Africa, the Middle East, and South Asia. Traditionally associated with femininity, celebration, and ritual, the dye is meticulously painted onto the skin in intricate patterns, creating temporary tattoos that gradually fade with time. The practice of henna application is historically conducted by women, passed down through generations as a form of adornment for weddings, births, and other significant life events.

In Harem #4, the intricate henna patterns mirror the elaborate tilework and carved wood motifs of the surrounding architecture, allowing the subject to visually blend into her environment. The patterns on the woman’s face presents stylized Arabic lettering. The henna becomes an extension of the space itself, camouflaging the female body within the ornate backdrop and blurring the boundaries between self and setting. Here, Essaydi repurposes henna as a powerful visual language, reclaiming a domestic and intimate craft to convey narratives of female agency and autonomy. Through Harem #4, Essaydi compels viewers to reconsider preconceived notions of Arab female identity, using craft, ritual, and surface as conduits for nuanced storytelling.